A Comprehensive Guide To the “One-and-Done”, One-Watch-Collection
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Being a “One Watch Guy/Gal” is a goal that is heavily romanticized in the watch industry, not only because the idea is quite beautiful, but also because if you’re in the hobby and are even aware of that expression in the first place, it is, cruelly, not realistically attainable.
In what I consider to be a classic article in the Hodinkee canon and the reference when it comes to discussions of owning just one watch, Jason Heaton puts this irony into words perfectly:
“I’ve always fantasized about being a one watch guy, wearing my Rolex Submariner for everything from diving wrecks to yardwork to weddings, its bezel becoming faded and its bracelet badly scratched. Sorry to say it, but I’m just not that guy.”
The truth is that if you love watches, you love, well, watches plural, and it will be very hard to commit to just one watch for the rest of your life (I am trying though!). Like Jason (and probably every one of you reading this), I’ve tried many, many times to commit to just the idea of one watch, and every time I’ve failed miserably.
Funnily enough, my tastes in watches have evolved to be quite practical, so most purchases I make are based on whether or not they could in fact be my one watch. It’s such an easy justification to tell myself:
“Don’t worry about the money, man, if you buy this you could conceivably wear it all the time and the cost-per-wear will eventually be pennies”.
So far, that line of thinking has led to me owning not one watch, but rather multiple One-Watches.
It’s a key distinction, and to paraphrase Gen Z, I did not fully understand the assignment (but flunking’s been pretty fun…).
If, however, you have stronger willpower than I do, or you’re looking for a gift for someone who you think has the fortitude not to fall down the rabbit-hole, it has never been a better time to find your “One-Watch”, sometimes at quite excellent prices.
Indeed, though Jason talks about a Rolex Submariner as his One-Watch, you don’t necessarily have to spend “Grail Watch” money (though if you’re willing to take a - spoiler - Breguet deep-sea fishing, please do send me some pictures!).
With all the recent announcements from various brands, I’ve been thinking a lot about “One-And-Done” models, the kind that could easily be your “One Watch Collection”, and in order of increasing MSRP (in euros, though you can find deals if you poke around the usual grey market and marketplace sites). So, here are ones I find particularly interesting for weekend yard-work or holiday adventures.
I’ll note upfront that while several Rolex models could absolutely be included in this category, it is still hard to get them without paying grey-market markups, and as I’ve written before I have very real safety concerns about wearing a Rolex out-and-about, so this alone makes the brand inherently unsuited for “one-and-done” status.
Still, I love the clicks talking about Rolex gets me, so please allow me a few more “Rolex” instances:
Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex.
Couple more…
Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, Rolex.
Ok, on to the list.
The Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic 38 mm on bracelet
(MSRP: 795 euros)
There isn’t too much to say about this one since it’s such a staple of the watch community (plus I’ve already said a few things in “The Four Watches That Every Watch Collector Should And Likely Will Own”).
If you’re looking for something on the dressier side this may be a bit of a marginal choice, but if you don’t wear a ton of formal wear, it’s hard to beat this combination of well-known brand name, performance (not the lume though, it sucks) classic good looks and “Swiss Made” designation, all for around 500 euros or less, provided you do some searching.
The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm (MSRP: 745 euros, 795 euros for the white mother-of-pearl dial variant)
This is another watch that showed up in The Four Watches That Every Watch Collector Should And Likely Will Own, though I added the caveat that it was still soon to say for sure.
Well, if there was still any doubt by mid-2023, it was erased in early June when Tissot announced that it was introducing a 35 mm version with automatic movements (to be fair, there was one 35 mm automatic on sale prior, but to me it wasn’t styled in a very mass-appealing way) in addition to the quartz models of the same size which were already on the market.
While integrated sports watches do look very nice - one reason why these have been so popular the last few years - something people don’t realize until they try them on is that they wear quite a bit larger than their measured size.
In the case (no pun intended) of the PRX Powermatic 80, it measures in at 40 mm but due to the flared lugs it wears more like a 42 mm, so it was natural that there would be demand for a smaller option, given the preference for smaller models among the watch community..
With the 35 mm range, Tissot not only hit all the standard dial colors, offering blue, black, and green, but also threw in a white option.
Not just any white though…
Mother of pearl!
That more premium material is usually associated with women’s watches, but I think this will look very, very nice on any wrist.
Hats off to Tissot for doing something different and keeping the upcharge to a minimum!
I have no doubt that Tissot will sell these by the truckload, and with good reason: for way, way less than a thousand dollars, you can get a stylish, “Swiss Made” watch from a well-known brand, and its 100 meters of water resistance means that it can accompany you on pretty much any of your life’s milestones, from crushing your presentations at work to enjoying time off on a beach somewhere.
Several Sinn pilot watches (MSRP: Starting at around 1,100 euros)
When it comes to pilot watches, Sinn has established its reputation as a formidable player in the industry (makes sense given that the brand’s founder, Helmut Sinn, was a pilot). Today, Sinn is known more generally for making high-tech mechanical watches that offer no-nonsense styling, and provide very good value-for-money compared to their Swiss counterparts.
Sometimes, while that “no-nonsense” styling makes for highly functional watches, if you’re looking for just one that will do in many situations, it can come across as a little much. That said, for a “one watch” from Sinn, I recommend sticking to the comparably entry-level (but still highly capable!) models: the 104, 556, and 856.
Though you won’t necessarily get all of the Sinn tech goodies in all of these watches, their build quality is uniformly very high. From a movement perspective, Sinn incorporates reliable and accurate Swiss automatic movements; they’re not the most exciting options, but they do offer robustness and reliable timekeeping (I’d say that’s what Sinn is chasing anyways, rather than excitement!).
Many in the watch community opt for the 104, but that’s a little too vintage for my tastes. My choice would be the Sinn 556A (it has Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 rather than just the batons of the Sinn 556i, which is a little too minimalist for me), since it strikes that right balance of looks and capability, even it if it is quite entry-level in terms of Sinn technology.
If you’re looking for the next level of performance and your budget allows it, you could opt for the 856 range; while that line does lean heavily into “tool watch” territory, I don’t think it would look too out of place in all but the dressiest of situations. In fact, compared to other Sinn watches, like the EZM line, the 856 may as well be a dress watch!
The Seiko Astron (MSRP: Starting at 2,100 euros)
I knew going into writing this piece that no one would take it seriously if I didn’t include at least one Japanese watch among all the inevitable Swiss entries.
You probably knew it was going to be a Seiko, but would you have guessed it was the Astron?
The Astron might be one of the most infamous watches in history because of its role in ushering in the Quartz Crisis. The Astron was reintroduced in 2012, becoming a model line with Novak Djokovic (arguably also kind of infamous?…) attached to it as a spokesperson.
Without saying this is a watch that should have been a smash, you’d think it would have had some impact, and yet the Astron line has been relatively dormant, especially compared to other lines such as Prospex and Presage.
As for me, I never cared much for the overtly “techie” looks of the watches, and quite honestly I wasn’t far along enough in my watch journey to appreciate there is absolutely a time and a place for quartz, provided it’s utilized for something other than just cutting costs relative to a mechanical option.
This year Seiko introduced a newly designed set of Seiko Astron models, and I was smitten as soon as I saw one of the examples on Time + Tide’s Instagram page; like Andrew I was also “kind of obsessed with it”.
I pre-ordered the grey-dial LE almost instantly and in fact that is what I’ve had on my wrist while getting this far into the article. I’ve got a very in-depth review planned but for now I’ll say that this particular instance of the Astron, while not for everyone, could absolutely be your “one-and-done” watch.
The titanium construction keeps things premium and light, the integrated-bracelet design is versatile and (for now at least) on-trend, and not only is the quartz movement accurate because quartz tends to be generally, but the GPS connection keeps the Astron accurate to…
You ready for this?
1 second per 100,000 years (not a typo); even if you don’t have access to the GPS signals, the 3x62 movement is supposedly accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month, which isn’t too shabby.
Oh, and because it’s solar powered, there’s never a need to change the battery.
Travel with it, swim in it, go to a fancy dinner with it, pretty much never worry about setting it or powering it.
Doesn’t get much more “one-and-done” than that!
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT 39 mm (MSRP: Starting at 3,250 euros)
Honestly, it’s very hard to go wrong to with any of the models in Longines’ Spirit line, and with every release I’ve found myself thinking “yep, I could see myself owning that”.
That feeling intensified early last year when Longines announced the Zulu Time GMT, a modern yet very retro-inspired take on a GMT. Now, had this just been a GMT, I would have thought it looked nice and moved on, but because Longines has the power of ETA behind them, they actually utilized a movement with a “true” GMT function, that is to say jumping local-hours with the seconds still running.
I never got around to purchasing one, and maybe that’s a good thing because the brand just announced, to pretty much everyone’s cheering, a 39 mm model, with options ranging from straps, to bracelets, even gold!
For your money (which, admittedly, is more than one might perhaps be used to seeing from Longines, but to be fair their watches are becoming quite kitted-out), you get a watch that can accompany you pretty much anywhere, whether that be to the office or Indiana Jones-ing around some far flung place.
What’s perhaps even more appealing nowadays is that while the Zulu Time has all the functionality of a Rolex Explorer II or GMT-Master II, it won’t attract anywhere near the attention while you go about your adventures; the fact that this is a very nice watch is your secret alone.
And I don’t even mind the five stars on the dial, I think they look quite nice actually…
The Nomos Ahoi (MSRP: starting at 3,340 euros)
Whereas German watches can come across as very “severe”, with Nomos you get all the integrity and quality that comes from the “Made in Germany” label, but with design that is much more cheery. Indeed, if your tastes skew towards a “quirky” interpretation of minimalism, perhaps you could consider a Nomos as your daily-wearer.
I had to think about this one, because while I do love Nomos styling, I’ve heard many of their watches referred to as quite delicate, especially their more dress-focused designs.
That is not so with the Nomos Ahoi.
This is a watch line that, unbelievably, was introduced just about a decade ago, but doesn’t seem to have caught on much since then. That’s a shame, because this watch oozes Nomos charm, and combines that with a robust 200 m of water resistance.
This is not a dive watch though (that’s very clear from the lack of a bezel); rather it is more generally water-themed, and in quite a charming way, with touches such as a black mesh strap that is made to invoke the lanyards of locker keys used at German public pools.
Because this is a Nomos, you can guess that the proportions are going to be nice and compact, and the Ahoi line would confirm your hunch: the original version has a case diameter just over 40 mm large, and Nomos just introduced a 38 mm version in some very cool, relaxing shades.
The Tudor Pelagos 42 mm (MSRP: 4,860 euros)
Knowing what I know now, if I had to restart from scratch but was only allowed one watch, I think it would be the 42 mm Tudor Pelagos.
Everyone got really excited over the new Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master that was announced earlier this year, but isn’t this basically equivalent? Not only is it equivalent, it is actually available, probably at a discount, and in your choice of black or blue (if you opt for the larger 42 mm sizing)!
The Pelagos line is not nearly as expansive as the Black Bay collection, but the 42 mm would be my choice over the 39 mm. I appreciate having a date function, and with the the larger version you get the fully spec’d, spring-adjusted dive bracelet that even Rolex doesn’t have.
Setting aside the comparisons and just taking a look at the Tudor Pelagos 42 mm itself, the list of features is really, really impressive:
Fully titanium construction
Fully lumed, ceramic bezel
500 meters of water resistance
70 hours of power reserve coming from Tudor’s “in-house” (not really, but I’ll save that for another article) movement
Tudor even throws in an additional rubber strap if for some reason the still cutting-edge bracelet doesn’t do it for you.
This may be my next watch purchase, and if your budget and/or willpower only allow you one watch, you should definitely consider the Tudor Pelagos 42 mm.
The IWC Mark XVIII 36 mm (MSRP: 5,200 euros)
If someone says “IWC” to you, chances are your mind is going directly to pilot’s watches. That’s great if you are a pilot, serve or have served in the military, or, unlike me, have 0 hangups about wearing a pilot’s watch just because you like airplanes.
I’ve written before about feeling “weird” about wearing pilot’s watches, but one watch I did not mention in that piece was the 36 mm IWC Mark XVIII, because it still felt like too much of a, well, pilot’s watch.
I’ve since re-considered that stance.
I think that this a perfect watch for someone who wants that “cool factor” without the “poser factor”, owing to the 36 mm size. In fact, I’d go so far as to say that this a legitimate alternative to the Rolex Explorer, in a much more under-the-radar (see what I did there?…), relatively affordable package.
In the Mark XVIII line, there was also a 40 mm option, but with the 36 mm you get a much more pleasantly positioned date, and a dial size that is not overpowering at all. That date placement has been remedied in the recently released Mark XX, thanks to IWC switching from a Sellita-based movement to an in-house alternative.
That is worth mentioning, because some will - not unjustifiably - balk at paying such a large price for such a “standard” movement in the 36 mm Pilot. That’s totally fair, but for what it’s worth, as I understand it IWC does do a fair amount of modification to its sourced calibers, and because of the Sellita base, you should be able to get this watch serviced quite easily.
Looking at the French IWC website, it appears as if only the blue option is available, but if you search around you should be able to find a black and grey dial option, on both bracelets and straps.
The Hermès H08 (MSRP: Starting at 5,800 euros)
You might be surprised to see a “fashion watch” on this list, but if you know me, you know that I don’t think style and function are mutually exclusive. One could easily make a case that Hermès is the world’s most illustrious and prestigious luxury brand, so it follows that anything and everything coming out of the Maison is high-quality, and actually the design brief behind the H08 was to create something suitable for all occasions.
Hodinkee put it quite nicely:
“This thoroughly modern all-terrain watch is a departure from the Maison's more refined silhouettes, with a new case architecture that offers a distinct everyday-wear quality. And if you have something by Hermès, don't you want to wear it every day?”
Usually, pricing for anything from Hermès is astronomical, which makes the H08 seem not only like a bargain compared to the brand’s other offerings, but also relative to the competition. For around the cost of a new Omega, you get something with arguably a more distinct personality, an in-house (ish) movement, titanium construction (the bracelet too!), and all the personality and charm that comes from the French atelier (that font, anyone?).
In a sign that Hermès’ years of investment in horology are paying off, the H08 was very well received upon announcement, and continues to garner praise. If you’re looking for a One-Watch that is a little off-the-beaten path, this could be the one for you.
The Omega Seamaster 300M (MSRP: Starting at 6,000 euros) and Omega Planet Ocean 600M 39.5 mm (MSRP: Starting at 7,200 euros)
I realize that I may be committing a “faux-pas” by combining these two models, but given that I’ve already covered the latter extensively while providing commentary for the former in that same article, I’m taking the liberty of doing so in this list.
As you can tell from the inclusion of 3 Omega watches on this list, I’m a huge fan of the brand, though I don’t think that enthusiasm is unfounded. I appreciate Omega’s history, and to me the brand has always stood out as a provider of innovation, mechanical precision, and iconic designs.
Regardless of whether you select the Seamaster 300M or the Planet Ocean, you can be assured of fantastic build quality, which includes a cutting-edge mechanical movement. Both watches also undergo METAS certification and the Planet Ocean is rated down to 600 meters.
I also happen to think that while the watches look quite different, both would be appropriate in casual as well as more formal settings. Keep in mind though that the different looks involve the proportions of the cases themselves: the Seamaster 300M is wider and flatter whereas the Planet Ocean has a smaller diameter but is more stout.
I have no issue with the Planet Ocean’s thickness, and do keep in mind that as with the Aqua Terra, the Planet Ocean is actually a whole range of watches; if you don’t mind going larger, you have a choice of other features (different case materials, jumping hour hands, GMT hands, among others).
The Omega Aqua Terra 38 mm (MSRP: Starting at 6,500 euros)
I wish I could link to the exact video, but I once heard Tim Mosso of WatchBox call the Omega Aqua Terra “The Thinking Man’s Datejust”; I think that’s a fair characterization, and I would even add the Oyster Perpetual into that description.
Whereas the Rolex Datejust is the traditional, even staid choice (though I fully realize Rolex has been branching out the last few years and I have extensively covered the ), the Omega Aqua Terra presents cutting-edge movement technology wrapped in a versatile, contemporary design.
If the Rolex Datejust or Oyster Perpetual are the watches that are bought by “edgy” second year banking analysts who want to stand out among a sea of Submariners, the Aqua Terra might be bought by someone in the tech field, looking just as good with their hoodie while they work or the suit they might wear to a friend’s wedding.
Like Omega’s catalog generally, the Aqua Terra line is quite vast, going from relatively simple three-hand/date models (in center or sub-seconds configurations), to chronographs, to high-performance, shock-resistant variants.
Though this watch and its many variants come in several sizes, for “one-and-done” status my view is that you’re better off sticking to the 38 mm size. That said, keep in mind that if you do opt for the larger 41 mm Aqua Terra, you’ll be wearing the calibre 8900 (rather than the smaller watch’s calibre 8800) giving you a longer power reserve as well as a jumping-hour function while setting the time, useful if you travel frequently.
I own several Omega watches but surprisingly not a classic Aqua Terra, which will likely be my next purchase from this brand. Though I’ve been back and forth on buying the bracelet option or favoring the rubber strap “out of the box” (and I’m currently trying to work up the courage to spend the nearly 1000 euros required to buy a Seamaster 300M bracelet straight from Omega), I think it’s safe to say that you’re good-to-go getting the rubber strap option on your Aqua Terra. I’m confident saying this is probably the most true choice relative to the watch’s design intent, similar to how the Oyster bracelet is pretty much inseparable from the Submariner.
The last thing to note is that relative to the Omega Seamaster 300M and the Planet Ocean, the Aqua Terra’s pricing is somewhat awkward; after all, it has no bezel, less water resistance, and yet still falls in between those two watches at MSRP. If you are having to decide between the Aqua Terra and one of the other two (maybe both?…) I recommend exploring outside of Omega’s retail network to see what deals you can turn up.
The Santos de Cartier (MSRP: Starting at 7,650 euros for the “medium” size)
“Another fashion watch?!”, you might be asking.
Well, yes and no.
On one hand, Cartier is known for jewelry and perhaps doesn’t come to mind as quickly as, say, Rolex, Omega or Breitling, when one hears “luxury wrist watch”.
On the other hand, how can we not acknowledge Cartier’s role as not only the originator of the modern wristwatch with the “Tank”, but also the pilot’s watch with this, the Santos de Cartier.
The watch was originally much dressier, and in fact if dressy is what you’re looking for, you could opt for the Cartier Santos-Dumont.
My money is (quite literally, I have one incoming!) on the Santos de Cartier, introduced in the late 1970’s, at which point the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak had encouraged other well-known brands to conceive their own interpretations of an integrated bracelet, steel sports watch.
What I love about the Santos de Cartier is that, like the Hermès H08, the watch combines very high levels of functionality with a design language that is unmistakably the brand’s own. Indeed, you get the classic, thin, square case shape, the Roman numerals, the sapphire cabuchon the crown, and you also get 100 meters of water resistance and quick change bracelet and link system that is so intuitive, its functionality should be the industry standard.
The Cartier de Santos is offered in a “medium” (36 mm) version and a “large” (40 mm) version, with the former not having a date. I love this watch so much that I traded away most of my collection for two Cartier Santos de Cartier watches (and some other goodies, more on this in some later posts), and if you too are looking for something that will go anywhere a Rolex Datejust can but with far more personality, it’s a hard icon to top.
One quick note though: of all the watches in this list, the Cartier, to me, comes across as one of the most “mature”. What I mean by that is that though anything on this list could be given, for instance, as a university graduation gift, the Cartier (again, to me) on a younger person will come across the same way as if a son or daughter asked to borrow their parent’s clothes for a job interview.
The Breguet Marine, Second Generation (MSRP: somewhere around 10,000 euros and up on the second-hand market)
Now we’re really getting into horological nerdery, because while one would be very familiar with Breguet, the man and the brand, if they were interested in watches, the name would likely not register at all with someone who just wanted to buy a “nice watch”.
Indeed, many of the watches on this list (though not all, especially the Sinn models), are popularly known (or at least somewhat recognizable), but the Breguet, well, that’s “inside baseball”.
I could write several pages about why I think Breguet is a highly-undervalued brand, and that essay would likely start with the products, which I think are fantastic.
Not only does Breguet have its own, very distinctive design language, they bring that language to life with the highest levels of execution, and in fact, many of the features that are associated with very high-end luxury watches are either Breguet inventions, or Breguet hallmarks due to the company doing them so well: guillochage, the tourbillon, and the Breguet overcoil hairspring.
My only issue (if I could even call it that) with Breguet is that at first glance, the brand has a catalog skewed heavily towards dress watches, at a time when sports watches are what consumers want. My statement doesn’t hold too much water though (I’m feeling very clever today…), because the Breguet Marine exists.
Proof of the mismanagement of Breguet by the Swatch Group is that it opts not to share much of the brand’s history; for instance, I just learned doing research for this post that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself was appointed by King Louis XVIII as Marine Chronometer maker to the French Navy!
In that sense, while the Breguet Marine line was introduced relatively recently, it still benefits from heritage that most brands could only dream of having.
Heritage is only part of the watch-wearing experience though, and with the Breguet Marine, you get something that is both beautiful and functional: beautiful because it draws on so many of the design cues for which Breguet is known, and functional because it still looks and acts like a modern sportswatch with its 100 meters of water resistance.
Now, this is a line that has been around for a few decades, so it has gone through several refreshes, with Breguet currently selling the third iteration of the Marine line. If I had to choose, I would opt for the second generation, represented by the picture above.
While I don’t find that either the first or third generation are categorically unattractive, I do find that the former look very “nineties”, while the newest models are a little generic, losing so much of the design that makes the second generation look so much like a Breguet.
While this is not a “cheap” watch in an absolute sense, the fact that Breguet has almost no hype associated with it at all means that you won’t have to look that hard to find a bargain, compared not only to the original MSRP but also what you could find on the market today for the same amount of money.
Piaget Polo 36 mm (MSRP: 11,900 euros, steel case on strap)
When the Piaget Polo S was re-introduced last decade, it was quickly derided as an also-ran, a blatant attempt by Piaget to capture the fire started by the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
Fast forward several years, and not only has the watch world grown more accepting of integrated bracelet sports-watches not named the Nautilus or Royal Oak, but Piaget has also moved away from the original 42 mm size which was another point of contention.
Indeed, earlier this year Piaget introduced the Piaget Polo 36 mm on a strap, and I was instantly intrigued; sure, the resemblances to other models are there, but for your money you get a watch that is discrete, elegant, and still carries with it all the horological credibility of a Piaget.
Now, the “for your money” part is key, because when I first read that the MSRP was nearly 12,000 euros - on a strap - I was a little disappointed. Yes, this is par-for-the-course for Richemont as of late, but even if this is a Piaget, that much money seems a little steep for a three-hander with a date.
If it were me, I’d wait to get this pre-owned or on the grey market, where I’m sure there will be some deals to be had before too long (same goes for this very nice model on a bracelet, on which I don’t even mind the use of diamonds).
Your turn
What did you think of this list? The watch world is vast so I’m sure I’ve missed out on at least a few candidates for a one-watch collection; what are they?
Please let me know in the comments!
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