The Four Watches That Every Watch Collector Should - and Likely Will - Own

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If most of your watch viewing comes from Instagram, it can be hard to realize that there is way, way more out there to experience than a handful of steel sports watches, but the truth is that this is a VAST hobby.

From vintage models to micro-brands to under-the-radar current and discontinued offerings from well known brands, there really is something for everyone. The endless landscape of wrist scenery is, for me at least, most of the fun, since I always enjoy stumbling across something I’d never seen before and then getting lost in research.

I do however recognize that the depth of the watch industry can be double-edged, especially at the beginning of one’s watch journey: one expert’s fun is a novice’s confusion (and hesitancy when it comes time to make that first purchase!). I also recognize that early on in the journey, a lot of the decision rests not only on how much the buyer likes the watch, but also how much that buyer believes other, more experienced watch collectors will like the purchase as well.

Granted, this type of approval-seeking has led us to where we are now, with Rolex Tiffany-dial Oyster Perpetual models going for more than certain Swiss tourbillons, but it’s totally understandable that someone new to the entry-level of the hobby would seek this validation: it’s not so much about looking rich, but rather confirmation that a substantial amount of money was not thrown away!

If you happen to be in this early stage of watch collecting, I have good and bad news. The bad news is that, well, this hobby has you now and will never let go. The good news is that while the ride can be punishing on your bank account, it doesn’t have to be ruinous.

In the decade-plus that I’ve been into watches, I’ve noticed that there is a very, very small handful of models (or model families, to be more correct) that are universal. And when I say universal, I mean that with as much certainty as I can glean without a formal data set. These are watches that pretty much everyone likes and that any watch collector who’s not simply looking to flex will enjoy. In fact, these watches are well-known to be as appreciated by collectors as are their Pateks and Rolexes! Speaking for myself, I own the latter and I promise you that the watches I’m about to cite provide me with very similar - sometimes greater - levels of enjoyment, for far, far less money.

The last thing I’ll say before ending the suspense is that these watches cover pretty much all the bases for watch-wearing, from sports to dress. So, if you’re on a limited budget, these should be attainable with some saving and deal-finding, and once you have them they will bring you a lifetime of satisfaction and pride-of-ownership, no further purchases required (but good luck with that…).

The Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic 38mm

Hamilton is a brand that comes up often at the entry-level, and with good reason: the company has a large heritage from which to draw and the backing of the Swatch group means that Hamilton’s models usually incorporate more bells-and-whistles than you might otherwise find at similar price points from other brands.

In Hamilton’s large catalog, the one family that dominates the mind-share of enthusiasts is the Khaki Field, and the one I gather has the most universal appeal is the Khaki Field Automatic 38mm. This is a watch that will give you 95% of the fun of a Rolex Explorer for about 5% of that watch’s actual, grey-market price.

The Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic, in the 38 mm configuration, could basically be your only watch, save for the dressiest of situations (Image source: www.hamiltonwatch.com).

To me, the two key aspects of this watch are its 38 mm diameter and discrete 10.8 mm thickness, which make for an on-wrist experience that is extremely comfortable, never obtrusive and appropriate for all but the most trunk-like wrists (and I suspect that, even then…). In fact, if you’re really disciplined and only want one watch, despite some shortcomings covered lower-down, this really could be your go-to for all but the dressiest of occasions.

It’s true that the hand-winding Khaki Field Mechanical is also very popular, but for me that watch leans too heavily into its military roots. As someone who hasn’t served, wearing one would feel a bit like cosplaying! I also find that because it feels so specifically military, it isn’t as suited to different occasions as the Khaki Field Automatic. With that model, you get a watch that, while certainly military inspired, is modern enough that it just feels like a refined accessory rather than part of a costume (or, indeed, a uniform).

Furthermore, the automatic movement is just easier to live with, and again, because it’s from Swatch you benefit from some pretty tasty features, notably an 80 hour power reserve.

It’s also worth noting that while the bracelet won’t win any awards, I find it to be really quite good: the tolerances on the links are more than passable (though the split-link configuration is a little weird), and the clasp is milled, with a twin-trigger release system.

The only downsides to the Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic 38mm are the lume, which is hot-garbage and almost non-existent, and the lack of a screw-down crown (though keep in mind the watch is still rated to 100m of water resistance).

Thankfully, if the lack of a screw-down crown still causes you to worry next time your adventures take you below the water level, this next watch has you covered.

The Seiko Prospex “King” Turtle

If the hobby of watch collecting is vast, it’s largely due to the existence of Seiko dive watches; that’s a school of study as deep as the oceans they swim in!

While new watch collectors may have a hard time believing anyone would spend any money, let alone Swiss-watch money, on what they see as a cheap mall brand selling crappy quartz watches, believe this:

Anyone who tells you they love watches, but doesn’t own a Seiko (particularly a diver), does not love watches!

A few years ago, the SKX 007 or 009 would have been the default option, but as those have been discontinued and prices have climbed, my pick for the one Seiko diver everyone has owned or will own is the Seiko “Turtle” (in time we may see the new Seiko 5 GMT become the new reference point, but as they have just been released I’m sticking with the Turtle, and plus, the GMT apparently has a friction-fit bezel…come on, Seiko…).

This is one of three Seiko King Turtles I own and I can confirm it is excellent (Image source: www.seikoboutique.fr).

Yes, at roughly the same price point is the Samurai, but that diver’s angular looks are perhaps more polarizing and less timeless than the more classic Turtle. On that point, the Samurai is a much more modern watch, whereas the Turtle has the heritage - not to mention battle-tested toughness - that is so sought after by the collector community.

The Turtle landscape is itself nearly bottomless, going all the way back to the now vintage 6105 models, but my money is on the latest “King” Turtle iterations (I own 4 Turtles, 3 of which are King references!). With those models you get everything that’s excellent about the Turtle, along with enhancements such as a ceramic bezel and upgraded dials (and no, the candy-bar cyclops does not bother me one. single. bit.).

The “Timeless Watch Channel” even wonders whether the “grenade-dial” green King Turtle is the best watch in the world:

Strong words from the “Timeless Watch Channel” on the merits of the green, “grenade-dial” Seiko King Turtle.

So, the Hamilton Khaki Field 38mm Automatic is tough, the Seiko King Turtle is tougher (though if you disagree please drop me a comment), now let’s move on to the toughest watch of them all.

The Casio G-SHOCK Square

I’m ashamed to admit that early in my watch collecting journey I wouldn’t even consider a G-SHOCK because it was - gasp - quartz.

You don’t have to tell me I was dumb for thinking this, because it truly is the stupidest of hot takes. At the time I got into watches though, I was working frequently in the field and when I was ready to wear a watch on jobs (I didn’t for years), it was clear that the G-SHOCK was the only way to go.

My journey started begrudgingly, favoring what I thought would be the most durable version for what I was doing. I bought myself a “King” G-SHOCK (I just realized, what’s up with my preference for King models? I’m half-French, shouldn’t anything monarchy-related be repulsive? Maybe I’m compensating for something without realizing it?), and since then I’ve gone from “begrudging” to “loving”, having acquired several other models, with my absolute favorite being the GW-M5610 “Square”.

No, the Casio GSHOCK GW-M5610 may not be “haute horlogerie”, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a deeply satisfying watch (Image source: www.tempka.com).

The other G-SHOCK watches I own are fun, but in hindsight I’ve come to realize that those purchases were more for sheer novelty than anything else (for instance my Mudmaster GWG-1000). Are these watches truly useful for a small number of professionals? Yes, but for anyone not in that group, I personally don’t expect they make for a very practical wearing experience, fit-wise (certainly not capability-wise!).

For that reason, I think the only G-SHOCK most people need is the Square. This is a watch that has a ton of easy-to-use features (unlike that Mudmaster…), and is truly stylish. Don’t let the large, on-paper dimensions fool you, this is a watch that fits very comfortably while making you feel heavy 80s-Marty-McFly vibes. In fact, my King Square is basically a blown-up version of the original and I don’t wear it at all now because it looks so “off” and bloated next to the original whose proportions are, to me, perfect.

Like Seiko divers, the world of G-SHOCK is huge because the landscape for each sub-family, like Squares, is huge as well. It seems that as Casio has moved upmarket it has focused on its Squares and now you can find them at all price points and materials from “resin” to titanium, even to solid-gold!

Now THAT is an integrated bracelet sports watch (Image source: www.hodinkee.com)!

For my money though, the one you want is the GW-M5610. If you haven’t found this channel yet, check out YoureTerrific’s take on it:

The highly underrated YoureTerrific YouTube channel explaining why the GSHOCK GW-M5610 is basically the only GSHOCK you need.

If you want to go slightly more upmarket, here’s the Watch Idiot (another very underrated YouTube channel) telling you why he loves the GW-5000U:

The Watch Idiot letting you know why he thinks the GW-5000U is “The Ultimate GSHOCK”.

Bonus: The Tissot PRX quartz/Powermatic 80

As I was finishing up the outline for this article, this piece popped up on my feed and I knew I had to include it. This is a new release but judging from the acceptance and the momentum it has so far, I am very confident in saying that this will become as ubiquitous as the three watches I’ve just listed. It may even be many new collectors’ entrance into the hobby since it checks so many boxes: huge value for money, excellent finishing, great design, all served up by a respected Swiss watch brand.

Tissot continues the green, “grenade” theme with this newly released version of the PRX Powermatic 80 (Image source: www.mrmontre.com).

The more historically accurate version is the initial quartz release (which is a phenomenal value proposition), though personally my money would be (will soon be..) on the automatic model. Either way, it’s hard to imagine either one causing any buyer’s remorse.

If I have one hesitation here, it’s how large integrated bracelet watches wear. This is a watch that is listed as having a 40 mm diameter but will in actuality wear more like a 42 mm. Tissot has recently released a 35 mm option with a quartz movement. I have to think it will also introduce an automatic range and if/when that happens, that will most likely be my pick from the PRX line.

Now it’s up to you

Have I forgotten any watches that are such good value and so well done that they are ubiquitous in the watch community?

Let me know in the comments!