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All of fashion and style amounts to cosplay.

When we actively take an interest in what we wear, we’re attempting to transcend who we are intrinsically by adopting an outfit which signals something (presumably positive) about us.

Many times, this signalling is based off of well established social norms, which were themselves established by many others who came before us.

At the most basic level, think of how Steve McQueen and James Deen are held up as ideals of masculinity, and how many men (myself included) take influence from them to attempt to project that virility.

Though watches are a relatively small subset of the vast area of men’s wear (and #menswear, and women’s wear of course), I’d argue that the amount of cosplay involved in our hobby adds up to far more than just the market size of luxury timepieces relative to, say, suiting, would suggest.

This starts to make sense when you consider that while a watch is a very small piece of your outfit - perhaps the smallest - it can easily be the most expensive!

This is by design: watch companies spend an enormous amount of marketing funds trying to convince us that, out of all the other things we buy, their watch(es) will be the most long-lasting, the most meaningful, and the most transcendent.

When you and I buy a luxury watch, it’s likely that we see ourselves - if only a little bit - as James Bond, an Arctic explorer, a deep-sea diver, an astronaut, or indeed an elite fighter pilot (the point of this article, I’m getting there, I promise…).

That’s totally fine!

We should never stop dreaming just because we get older, and as I said at the very beginning, basically every fashion choice we make is based to some extent on being something that we’re not.

That said, personally I have my limits.

I’m not too bothered about wearing a dive watch despite not even being anywhere near a pool nowadays, because the dive watch has been interpreted, re-interpreted and adopted so widely that it has now become synonymous with just being “a watch”.

No one would have any inclination to think that you are really a saturation diver because you chose to strap on a Rolex Sea-Dweller, but I believe that would NOT be the case when wearing a pilot’s watch.

Unlike the dive watch, the pilot’s watch has not become ubiquitous in the public view, and when a company like IWC tries to sell a Big Pilot based on how authentically designed and functional it is, I feel as if I’m being sold a costume accessory.

If you’re still unconvinced, consider that I also like to wear aviator sunglasses and Schott bomber jackets. These are two items that, like dive watches, have shed almost completely their military origins, but would I ever wear them together?

Would I ever wear either or both of those items with a pilot’s watch?

No way!

The “coolness” I might feel walking out of the house would be quickly lost the first time anyone came up to me and said “I served too, what airplane did you fly?”.

I get it, this is a personal hang-up; if you disagree, well, I’m just some random guy on the internet, so feel free to “do you”!

For me though, this mental obstacle is real, and it certainly is a downer because modern-inflected pilot’s watches (not the heritage flieger ones, talk about a costume accessory there…) do look cool, and they are very functional precisely because they were built so specifically for one, very demanding, occupation.

Still, it is what it is, and I don’t think you’ll find an IWC Top Gun in my collection any time soon.

But…

That doesn’t mean you won’t find a pilot’s watch!

The “Un-Pilot”, Pilot’s Watches

The watch industry is so vast and, let’s be honest, old, that in 2022 there are many categories of watches, and countless options within each of those categories.

This is certainly the case with pilot’s watches, and recently I acquired a couple of watches that were ostensibly designed as pilot’s instruments, but they look nothing like what “pilot’s watch” should.

My purchasing decisions had nothing to do with the fact these models were pilot’s watches; I just liked the aesthetics, and the fact they didn’t look at all like typical examples was actually a huge plus.

This got me thinking about other “un-pilot”, pilot’s watches, and I hope you enjoy the selection I’ve put together for you.

The Cartier Santos-Dumont

I was truly surprised when I found out the Cartier Santos-Dumont was not only a pilot’s watch, but also the FIRST pilot’s watch!

The story goes that French-Brazilian dirigible pilot Alberto-Santos Dumont told his friend Louis Cartier that he needed to be able to tell the time without removing his hands from the controls, and long-story-short, the pilot’s watch (not the “Cartier pilot’s watch”, THE pilot’s watch!) was born.

I said earlier that time has turned the diver’s watch into just “a watch”, and probably due to the fact that the Cartier pre-dates the modern dive watch by nearly 50 years, time has even more so transformed the Cartier Santos-Dumont from a pilot’s tool to one of the most elegant dress watches you can buy.

I love that aspect of this watch, because it’s so far removed from the “poser” vibes I’m afraid of giving off while wearing a traditional pilot’s watch. In fact, if you were approached while wearing the Santos-Dumont and a bomber jacket or (not “and”…) Ray-Ban aviators, it would be to ask you for style tips, not on which air force base you served.

Turning to Cartier’s broader watch catalog, the brand is rather unique in that it has a nearly completely consistent design language across its models (check out this Cartier diver, you don’t have to see the name on the dial to know without a doubt it’s a Cartier). Owing to this consistency, I’m of the opinion that you can branch out of the Santos-Dumont range and still comfortably tell yourself that your particular choice has more than a little “pilot’s watch DNA” in it.

The Yema Flygraf Pilot M1/M2

French watchmaking was a huge industry before the quartz crisis decimated it starting in the beginning of the 1970’s. On one hand I’m glad to say that there are indications that a small renaissance is happening in and around the French Jura, but on the other hand French design generally can be very “quirky”, so the watches coming from the Hexagon are often not to my personal tastes.

Enter the Yema Flygraf Pilot, in either M1 (black dial) or M2 (grey dial) configurations.

Thanks to a large marketing push and a real effort to design their own movements, I’d say that in the small circle of watch enthusiasts, Yema is probably the most well-known French brand at the moment.

Yema is a re-born heritage brand, so many of their models are vintage re-issues which don’t interest me at all (because I have almost no interest in vintage watches, but that’s for another article…), but as soon as I saw the Flygraf Pilot, my interest was piqued.

This is a from-the-ground-up, new model, and sure, the little airplane graphic (it’s lumed!) could tip you off this is a pilot’s watch, but beyond that?

This is basically a highly-spec’d field watch.

Not only is this watch much smaller than a typical pilot’s model, coming in at 39 mm, but it also has, get this, a screw-down crown and 300 m of water resistance.

You read that right: 300 m.

Notice as well that the dial, in addition to having quite a stylish font for the main numerals, manages to incorporate a 24 hour scale without feeling cluttered at all.

The watch also has an “in-house” movement; that’s not quite the right designation, but hats off to Yema for doing something other than just putting yet another Sellita into their models.

The Flygraf Pilot retails for 799 euros, but Yema seems to run at least two big sales a year, so I picked mine up for about 500 euros in the summer, and in December of 2022, I’m seeing this on their website for 479 euros!

Yes, you could get the much better-know Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic 38 mm for that money, but the lume on that watch sucks, and I’ll give the nod to the Yema for having quite a bit more character (I do wish though, that like the Hamilton, the Yema offered a date window…).

I bought the grey-dial watch because I already own several black-dialed watches, though I’m sure the black version looks sharp, and it’s probably the more legible of the two choices.

I also opted for the bracelet, which makes financial sense given how much it would cost as an extra, but it’s nothing to write home about. This watch is a strap monster though (even with - whomp whomp - 19 mm lug spacing), so feel free to let your imagination run wild…

Also, I would not feel right if I didn’t mention that I haven’t heard numerous instances of Yema having less-than-stellar quality control. I have had no such issues so far, and hopefully Yema is listening to their customers and making the necessary changes, but please keep this in mind if you’re weighing out a purchase.

The Rolex GMT-Master II

I’ve been “done” with Rolex for a while now, and there are many models I’d consider over the Crown for my next several watch purchases, but I can’t deny that this list would be incomplete without the GMT-Master II.

It’s well-known that the original GMT-Master (which tracked only GMT time) was developed for Pan-Am pilots, so not only does it have the technical heritage of a pilot’s watch, it also has ample amounts of the glitz and glamour that Pan-Am possessed during the Golden Age of jet travel.

Though the GMT-Master II (with an independent time-zone hand, allowing tracking of three time zones if you include the bezel) is absolutely a pilot’s watch, the key difference that sets it apart from pilot’s watches from, say IWC, is that the former was designed for commercial pilots whereas the latter clearly has military pilots in mind.

Consequently, the GMT-Master II has a much more civilian appeal and honestly, it looks very, very similar to many other popular Rolex sports models.

Today, we can probably agree that this is less a “pilot’s” watch, and more of a “traveler’s” watch.

If I had to pick one GMT-Master II, I’d drop all of the professional pretense and lean heavily into the dashing globetrotter vibes, by going with the solid gold/green dial model.

My conscience will never let me say that I’ve served, but if someone were to think I travel only by private jet, sure, I’d go along with that.

The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer

Hamilton leans really strongly into its (earned) military heritage, and as a consumer that does lead to the potential to come across as a bit of a Gravy (not Navy!) Seal.

That said, the brand does a good job of making tough-looking, military-inspired pieces, that tread well the line between useful gear and costume.

Though Hamilton certainly has some traditional-looking pilot’s watches, they also have a few that appear to be “pilot’s watches” in name only; such is the case with the somewhat clumsily titled “Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer”, the second watch on this list that I happen to own.

Late last year I was down the Chrono24 rabbit hole and was immediately smitten by this very smart-looking watch, which seemed to present a perfect mix of under-the-radar appeal and specifications oriented towards true practicality.

Unfortunately this model seems to have been discontinued, but if you do want to look into it you’ll have some decisions to make, because not only was this watch released in stainless steel, it also appeared in several colors of anodized aluminum!

In the stainless steel configuration you’ll be able to choose from a bracelet or NATO strap option (I opted for the former as the bracelet is really quite nice for the money) and on the aluminum versions you’ll be presented with color-matched NATO straps. Note also that Hamilton offers a diverse selection of OEM straps (I bought one for this watch), or if you’d rather go your own way the lug width is a conventional 22 mm.

The asymmetrical case may seem weird at first, but to me it’s a distinguishing design feature and it’s not that noticeable at all when you’re enjoying having the watch on your wrist. The only puzzling decision Hamilton made when designing this watch was to opt for a screw-down top crown for the inner rotating bezel, but provide solely a push-down winding and setting crown, on a watch with 100 m of water resistance.

Like the Yema Flygraf Pilot, this Hamilton has a 24 hour scale which is neatly incorporated into the overall look of the dial. When you look at the watch there’s a lot going on, from the outer bezel all the way to the main numerals, but everything is presented clearly and can be read at a glance.

My one serious gripe about this watch is the lume, which like all Hamilton’s I’ve ever handled, is total trash.

Hamilton, if you’re reading this, though I feel good lume should be “table-stakes” at your price-point, especially with the massive Swatch Group behind you, I will gladly pay extra money for better lume if that is what it takes!

This watch originally retailed for around 1000 euros, but if you poke around you can also find examples several hundred euros below that. If you can score an example for those lower prices, you’re getting a very well-made, practical watch from a trusted brand name, that also has plenty of character without being over-the-top.

Oris ProPilot X 36mm

Oris is probably most well-known for its Aquis line of divers, but if you know even just a little bit about the brand, you probably know that its line of ProPilot watches is well-loved owing to its typical Oris mix of good price and features.

While the original ProPilot watches could certainly qualify as pilot’s watches that don’t look like a costume prop, the new ProPilot X line goes even further in giving you those vibes without being so direct about them.

Whereas the original ProPilots certainly have that “pilot’s DNA” if you know what to look for, here it seems as if the only related design element left is the turbine motif on the bezel. From a purely horological standpoint though, there’s plenty here to keep you happy: a wearable 39 mm dial, the fantastic (I would even say groundbreaking Calibre 400) and even a range of colors.

I haven’t had a chance to even see these in person, so if you have and have thoughts, please do share them in the comments.

Quick side note: prior to the Calibre 400, Oris experimented with a series of in-house movements, the 11X line. Those efforts resulted in some really, really sweet-looking dress and pilot watches. The 114-based pilot’s watch is not for me, but if you like the look of it there are probably bargains to be had out there.

The Sinn EZM 10 TESTAF

Pilot’s watches are literally the foundation of Sinn, and some its most popular models such as the 556 and 104 could easily be categorized as such.

Sinn does however make some watches which are absurdly spec’d for the cockpit, without necessarily looking like it. The Sinn EZM 10 TESTAF is one such watch, and holy shit, what a watch.

The EZM 10 TESTAF looks like the answer to a question Sinn put to its engineers:

“What would a mechanical G-Shock look like, as seen through our design sensibilities?”

I’ll let you peruse the full specifications list, but these are the highlights:

• This is a fully-certified pilot’s watch according to the Technical Standard for Pilot Watches (TESTAF)

• 60-minute (not a more typical 30-minute counter) chronograph with a central elapsed minute hand (the orange arrow with the airplane). This means that while there are sub-dials, a critical piece of information is right in-front of you, easily readable at a glance.

• 200 m of water resistance in addition to the low pressure resistance expected of a pilot’s watch

• The full suite of Sinn technology: Tegimented case, DIAPAL escapement and dehumidifying capsule

This watch is admittedly big at nearly 47 mm across, but the fully titanium construction mitigates at least the weight aspect of this size. Also, the EZM 10 has a sapphire-capped bezel (similar to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms), which was unusual when this watch was released in the early 2010’s and aluminum inserts were still quite widespread.

There is no question that this is a tool watch, through-and-through, but a pilot’s watch?

Yes, there is an airplane at the end of the elapsed minute counter and if you’re super detail-oriented youi’ll notice the bezel is of the count-down variety, but besides that?

This is not a pilot’s watch, this is an adventure watch.

There’s no doubt that the EZM 10 is a niche watch from an already niche brand, so it’s perhaps unsurprising - though no less heartbreaking - that the model was discontinued a few years ago.

Right before this happened, I was very seriously considering acquiring one and I would absolutely still not rule it out; prices on the pre-owned market are good, in that this watch is still very competitive with other offerings on the market costing the same amount.

Sinn, please, please, please update the EZM 10!

Bonus entry: The Breitling Chronomat

Breitling is the mainstream alternative to Sinn in that it is likely perceived by the general public as a pilot’s watch company. Sure, there’s IWC, but I would venture a guess that Breitling is more well-known, and though the company is long removed from ads featuring John Travolta in front of a jetliner, that ad spend has had a very, very long tail.

Also, to be fair to Breitling, this brand recognition and association is not just due to flashy marketing, because the marketing built upon a very strong pilot’s watch history in the form of the Navitimer.

That said, with all due respect to the Navitimer, the people who wear them and Breitling, I have 0 interest in owning a Navitimer.

If you’re wearing one as a pilot, that’s one thing, but if you don’t have your wings, not only does this dial-up the “posing” to 11, but also the watch - to me - is so overly complicated that it’s unattractive.

But…

The Breitling Chronomat, now that is a handsome “un-pilot” pilot’s watch.

I came across a picture of one on my Instagram feed as I was finishing up this article and I was reminded of just how awesome looking these watches are.

Similarly to how Omega reworked the classic “Bond” Seamaster 300M, Breitling updated the Chronomat with several size and style options that truly offer something for everybody, whether they’re pilots or not.

I applaud Breitling for offering a range of sizes, from the 36 mm time-and-date only version which I’d absolutely wear as an off-the-beaten-path integrated bracelet watch, to the gonzo 44 mm watches that set off the primal, reptilian part of my brain.

With the Chronomat, you get a rugged, handsome, very capable sports watch that could be called a pilot’s watch due to Breitling’s heavy association with aviation, but that absolutely anyone could wear proudly.

You’re now cleared for landing in the comments

What do you think? Do you share my hesitations with regards to pilot’s watches, or is it just me?

If you also hesitate to wear “true” pilot’s watches, what are some of your favorites that don’t immediately stand out as being such watches?

Please let me know in the comments!